Taking the Caminos Less Traveled

Why Walk A Camino?

As brand-new residents of France and recently retired diplomats, we were looking for a fresh adventure to explore Europe, step away from 24/7 connectivity and mark our transition to a new phase of life. Our Camino experience delivered on all of our goals.

Aside from a few short vacation day hikes, we had never done anything like this before. New to Camino walking we began researching and preparing nearly six months before our spring trip (April/May), focusing in particular on which Camino routes to take and what gear to purchase, since we decided to carry our packs.

Which Camino Route?

The first question we had was where to start. We quickly learned there is not just one Camino route—there are more than 200 Camino de Santiago routes crossing into Spain from France, Italy, Portugal and elsewhere.

The most well-known is the Camino Frances, which is hiked by roughly 49% of all pilgrims. As a result, it is also the best-known and best-supported route. Most pilgrims hike one of the top seven Camino routes, while only about 3% venture onto lesser-traveled paths.

We decided to focus on routes starting in and leading back to France. We chose to begin in Lourdes at the start of the Piemont Trail (GR 78). We then connected with the Camino Frances in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and crossed the Pyrenees into Spain, following the route to Pamplona. From Pamplona, we crossed back into France and continued on the Camino Baztan, a beautiful route that ultimately became our favorite.

Different Camino Routes, Different Experiences

Just as there is no single Camino, there is no single Camino experience.

Our time on the Camino Frances was radically different from our experiences on the Piemont and Baztan routes, largely because of the sheer number of pilgrims hiking alongside us. In our first few days on the Frances, we met Chinese, Korean, European, Australian, New Zealand, Latin American, and American pilgrims.

Some estimates suggest that as many as 242,000 people hike the Camino Frances each year, with nearly 79% traveling between May and October. On the positive side, this creates a welcoming and collegial community on a route that is exceptionally well supported with different services. For example, designated water stations are available along parts of the Camino Frances.

However, the popularity also means more crowding, greater competition for lodging and meals during peak periods, and very little solitude on the trail.

If you are looking for a more immersive nature experience with fewer fellow hikers, the secondary Camino routes may be a better fit. On the Camino Frances, we primarily met other pilgrims. On the Piemont and Baztan Caminos, we were far more likely to encounter friendly locals, such as Serge, a Basque farmer who shared some of his homegrown kiwis with us, and Marko, a mountain guide who prepared a delicious meal when we stayed at his home in the tiny village of Saint-Just-Ibarre.

On the smaller trails, we generally met only four to eight fellow pilgrims each day, and most were seeking the same back-to-nature, culturally immersive experience that we were. Our sense is that these secondary routes offer something closer to what the Camino Frances may have been like 20 or 25 years ago, before its popularity exploded in the age of social media.

Camino Routes – Different Infrastructure, Similar Challenges

All Camino routes pass through many more small towns and villages than large cities.

The Camino Frances offers more infrastructure, including food, water, lodging, and luggage-transfer services. Yet the high volume of pilgrims can strain available resources. We met two Australian men who, after hiking 18 miles from Roncesvalles to Larrasoaña, had to take a taxi into Pamplona because there were no available accommodations at their end point, even the dormitory-style albergues were full.

On the secondary routes, fewer people need to be accommodated, but there are also far fewer lodging options. Some accommodations operate only during the busiest hiking season.

The Lesson: Research Your Route Carefully, Plan Ahead, and Book Early.

In several smaller villages along the Piedmont and Baztan caminos, we were surprised to discover there was no café, bakery, or grocery store at all. Like many rural areas around the world, locals simply drive to larger towns for supplies. Unfortunately when you’re traveling on foot, that’s not an option.

In Olague, we arrived at 4:05 p.m. only to discover that the village’s sole café had closed at 4:00. We managed to buy bread and cheese from a small shop for dinner, but after hiking nearly 25 miles in cold rain, it was not one of our favorite Camino memories.

One additional note: We carried our own backpacks and generally followed the recommendation of keeping pack weight below 10% of body weight. However, we occasionally exceeded that limit because of the need to carry a full day’s worth of food and water on the secondary trails.

No One Camino Map or App Rules Them All

Just as you should research lodging options in advance, you should also prepare to use multiple navigation tools, especially on less-traveled Camino routes.

We discovered that no single app provided everything we needed. In fact, we relied on several tools, both on the secondary trails and on the Camino Frances.

We used Visorando, AllTrails, and Gronze. Visorando was the only app Rob found that allowed him to download map files directly to his Apple Watch. Gronze, on the other hand, was the only app we found that included detailed maps for the Camino Baztan.

We also noted trailmarking varied. Some routes are extremely well marked with signs and scallop shell waymarkers, while others are not. Connectivity can also be limited in remote areas. We ultimately relied on a combination of signposts, trail markers, downloaded maps, navigation apps, and old-fashioned common sense. As a result, we rarely had to backtrack.

An Unexpected Camino Challenge: Laundry

Doing laundry turned out to be more difficult than we anticipated.

Our original plan was to wash our hiking clothes in sinks along the route. However, high humidity and frequent evening rain typical of springtime in the Pyrenees made it nearly impossible to dry clothing overnight, even garments specifically designed to dry quickly.

In fact, we managed to set off a fire alarm in a small inn while trying to dry Smartwool socks with a hair dryer. It turns out damp wool creates a surprising amount of steam.

The moral of the story: Take advantage of any laundromats or laundry services you encounter, especially in larger towns.

Camino Planning Tips: Our Lifesavers

A few practices made a significant difference for us:

• Break in your hiking boots well before departure. We started wearing ours six months before the trip.
• Dress in layers rather than bringing multiple bulky outerwear options. Long-sleeve shirts or rash guards layered over short sleeves provided excellent flexibility.
• Rash guards and wide-brimmed sun hats proved essential for protection from intense sun exposure, even in spring.
• A lightweight rain poncho that covers both you and your backpack is invaluable. Combined with a light windbreaker, it was all the outerwear we needed.
• Bring comfortable shoes to wear after hiking each day. Your feet will thank you.
• Schedule rest days to recharge, reflect, and explore the towns, villages, and cultural sites you encounter along the way.

Camino Resources: Apps, Maps, and Lodging

Below are some of the resources we found most useful:

Visorando – Available in English and French, with route information and lodging suggestions.

AllTrails – Useful for hiking routes around the world.

Gronze – Specifically developed for Camino pilgrims and especially valuable in Spain and Portugal.

Map Downloads – We were sometimes able to download map files directly to Rob’s Apple Watch, which proved to be an excellent backup when GPS signals were weak on the Baztan and Piemont routes.

Casa Rurales – Spain’s network of charming rural inns often provided excellent meals and memorable stays in historic villages. If your budget allows, they are well worth considering.

Gîtes de France – Along the Piemont Trail, several of our accommodations were in French family homes where hosts rented rooms and prepared meals. Many of these can be found through the Gîtes de France network.

Last Word

Our decision to combine three different Camino routes into a loop gave us the experience we were looking for.  We had a taste of what major Camino routes are like during our time on the Camino Frances, but we loved our experience on the smaller routes – particularly the Camino Baztan.  We walked for about 3 weeks at the opening of walking season in the Pyrenees – giving us the full experience of spring rains, different conditions and crowds along the trails.  

If you are seeking a path less travelled we recommend trying a secondary Camino route like the Piedmont Trail or the Camino Baztan.  You will not regret it!