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My Perspective On The Camino Frances

Your Camino – Your Way

I’ve always done things differently. Some may see that as stubborn — and sometimes it is. However, it also means I’ve learned from my experiences, on my own terms, without regret.

That mindset shapes how I walk the Camino de Santiago and how I help others to make choices that fit their needs for their walk. Walking a Camino isn’t about doing it the right way. It’s about doing it your way.

Dropping the Rulebook

While my experiences on different Camino routes have always been positive, I have encountered judgment that can quietly discourage a person from starting a journey they dream about. That is the kind of regret I want to avoid. 

Camino “purists” may tell you that unless you tick certain boxes — starting in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, crossing the Pyrenees on foot, carrying your own pack, sleeping in municipal albergues — you haven’t really done it right.

My Truth?

I’ve never crossed the Pyrenees. I haven’t carried my pack for more than a couple of days on any Camino de Santiago route since 2018. I have not stayed in municipal albergues or donativos. Yet despite these choices – my Caminos have been meaningful, challenging, and worth every step.

Do I sometimes feel self-conscious when a pilgrim walks past me with a 12kg pack headed for the pilgrim hostel? Sure. Then I remind myself my camino is my own and not for me to judge how I or anyone else chooses to do it.

My Camino Preferences

I didn’t walk the Camino Frances in one go. At 790 kilometers, it’s a serious undertaking — one that asks for 30+ days of your life. Work made that choice impossible for years. However, what did I discover when I finally had the time? I didn’t want to do it all at once!

Waymarker along the Camino Frances – Photo by Dana Stinson

In 7–14 day stretches, I’m comfortable and more present in my experience.  

Thanks to changes made in the Compostela rules by the Pilgrim Reception Office in Santiago – shorter trips fit the logistics of walking and meeting the requirements for a Compostela certificate. Pilgrims can now receive a Compostela certificate for any contiguous 100-kilometer section of an official camino route — or for completing a full route over time, in sequence. That’s a game-changer for anyone who chooses to walk a route in sections.

The Camino Frances – What Is It Like? 

Northern Spain on foot is a living history lesson and study in the topography and culture of different regions of the county. From the medieval hill towns and vine-cultivation of Rioja, across the wide open meseta plains, through the mountains above León, and finally into the green hills of Galicia — it’s a kaleidoscope of experiences.

After four or five hours on the trail, few things rival a hot bath followed by a glass of Ribera del Duero or a crisp Albariño. The combination of physical effort and simple pleasures is one of the things that makes the Camino addictive.

Some experiences I keep coming back to:

  • The iron pilgrim sculpture at Alto del Perdón above Pamplona and early lessons in mud and the importance of proper walking shoes.
  • The famous chickens at Santo Domingo de la Calzada Cathedral — a classic Camino tale that is a mix of culture and legend. 
  • Walking under the Arco de Santa María into the old center of Burgos and seeing that city’s magnificent cathedral for the first time.
  • Witnessing Leon’s Semana Santa processions during Easter — a world heritage event showcasing centuries of ritual.
  • Leading a group walking their first Camino into Santiago and feeling the excitement build as pilgrims from every country pushed forward to the Cathedral square. 

Even the hard days earn their place in the memory and contribute to the feeling of accomplishment. That is part of the magic of the Camino and particularly the grand-mere of them all – the Camino France or French Way.

Mural at the Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada – Photo by Dana Stinson

Breaking Down the Camino Frances

Many pilgrims consider the final 100 kilometers from Sarria to Santiago as an alternative to the full 790-kilometer journey — but there are other excellent options worth exploring.

Two weeks? Walk from León to Santiago. León’s beautiful old center and food scene make it one of the best starting points on the entire route. Leon has good train access from Madrid and its own airport – making the logistics easy.

Ten days? Consider Pamplona to Burgos. Pamplona has its own airport as well as good connections to Madrid and Bilbao. Burgos offers onward travel by train or bus to Madrid and Bilbao. The walking on this section of the Camino Frances is varied in terms of terrain and historical interest.

With a bit of logistical consideration, almost any section of the Camino Francés works for a chosen window of time.

Along the Way – Photo by Dana Stinson

The Best Time Is Now

People put their Camino walk on a bucket list and leave it there for years, waiting for the right conditions: enough time off, enough fitness, the right companion, the perfect weather. Walking part of the French Way Camino route now — whatever way fits your requirements — is almost always better than waiting for a chance to walk all of it later.

You don’t need a month. You don’t need to carry everything you own. You just need to start and walk your Camino your way!

Buen Camino.

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